Sunday, September 17, 2023

Vernacular architecture of Himachal

#dhajjidewari, #kathkuni, #garapathar, #Roerich https://www.rt.com/india/582832-nicholas-roerich-india-himalayas-kullu/ Published online in Russia Today, September 2023

Sunday, March 15, 2020

Draped in Warmth

The luxuriously soft and embroidered Kashmiri shawls have been worn from antiquity. Brinda Suri writes how they are, and will remain a prized possession

Kani shawl 


The uniqueness about handicraft is how it is representative of epoch, place and culture. When the three are seamlessly interwoven, that piece of craft becomes timeless. A remarkable illustration of one such contemporary classic is the Kashmiri shawl. 

When temperatures in north India hover in single digits, shawls and stoles from Kashmir are draped in style. Almost every wardrobe usually has a splendid pashmina sozni (needlework, from the Persian term soz which means needle) hand-me-down, lovingly passed on from the grandmother, to the mother, to the daughter. Some of these are tremendously gush-worthy and almost always have a delicious story of how they became a prized possession.

Papier Mache shawl
Though the delicately-embroidered sozni is a must-have and in constant demand, choices in the Kashmiri shawl have increased over the past few years with lost techniques having been slowly, but surely revived in the Valley. Winters now mean flaunting the woven kani, the painted and embroidered kalamkari or the bold-patterned papier mache shawls.

Royal patronage
While the origin of shawls in Kashmir remains obscure, the craft definitely goes back a few hundred years. Historical records dating to the 15th century throw light on patronage provided to the embroidered and woven craft by royalty, particularly the much-admired eighth Sultan of Kashmir Zain-ul-Abadein and later Mughal emperor Akbar and his sons Jahangir and Shah Jahan. There is a very compelling note on the splendour of Kashmir’s shawls by Abul Fazl, one of the navratans, nine gems, of Akbar’s court and author of Akbaranama and Ain-i-Akbari. In the latter work Fazl mentions how pashmina was a luxury export article from Kashmir to many countries. It was Akbar, says Fazl, who encouraged the development of jamavar, pashmina fabric woven in running length so it could be tailored into the jama, the flowing tunic-like dress worn by men in those times. These jamas were intricately embroidered and sometimes in such a way that the base material was not visible. Overtime heavily patterned shawls, whether embroidered or woven, came to be known as jamavars.


A kani is considered to be one of the most complicated weaving techniques of the textile world. Skilled artisans employ the double interlock twill tapestry weave to create its distinctive patterns. Kani literally means small sticks, and these are what construct the design. Coloured threads are wound on the kanis which are subsequently used as bobbins that are gently passed through the finely-laid warp and weft by the weaver. For a complex design over a thousand such kanis can be used to build the pattern. So painstaking is the process that in a day barely an inch can be woven. The reason a kani takes almost a year to complete and commands a premium price.

Stunning Designs

Sozni pashmina 

The kalamkari shawl on the other hand is lighter in work but looks equally stunning. In a kalmakari, traditionally the entire design is painted with a wood kalam, pen, after which it’s handed over to the embroider who highlights the outlines and fills certain motifs to lend an embossed look to the shawl. These days the digital printing technique is being ingeniously used to make the coloured pattern and bringing down the shawl cost.

A vibrant play of colours and design is the distinguishing feature of the papier mache shawl. They ape the painted patterns of the papier mache art seen on boxes and other artefacts. A variety of stitches is used on this shawl and what makes it stand apart from other sozni shawls is the use of minute knots throughout the pattern which truly gives it a painted papier mache feel.

The rich catalogue of shawls of Kashmir is an acknowledgment of the artistic talents of the Valley. Where once only men were involved in the arts, now women too, are being trained in all forms of embroidery. Women putting down their signature designs on the embroidered classics is a sign of the changing times.


Published in Deccan Herald, March 2020

Read more at: https://www.deccanherald.com/sunday-herald/sunday-herald-melange/draped-in-warmth-813301.html

Friday, August 30, 2019

JW Marriott: Vicky comes to town

  Executive Chef JW Marriott Naveen Handa with
Chef Vicky Ratnani
Cooking with spices is nothing short of alchemy, says chef Vicky Ratnani. You need to know the exact quantity to add for that perfect flavour, just a pinch can make all the difference. The synonym of alchemy is chemistry. It’s also magic and enchantment and that’s what the chef brings to his food. The tricity can savour a bit of it at 35 BREWHOUSE, JW Marriott, Chandigarh, where the chef is presenting A Curated Experience.

On the menu:  According to the chef, “The global gourmet menu which we will be serving through this curated dinner is an expression of mine and the hotel's global culinary prowess blended with our love for our roots.”  Diners can look forward to Lobster Mac and Cheese where the desi addition is Amul cheese and green chillies or then The Brew pani-puri which are golgappas filled with a potent mix of imli chutney and beer. There’s also the cheesy Wood fired Mini Cazlone, filled with the all-time favourite, yes, you guessed it: butter chicken. The green version has a filling of charred broccoli. There’s also Mera desi roast served with jeera potatoes and a sparkling pepper sauce. The Smoky Tandoori Bowl has vegetables served with a quinoa pilaf, creamed spinach and kachumbhar. It’s peppy progressive cuisine, hearty and hot from the hearth. 

About the hotel: “Since I like to keep a keen eye on the culinary landscape of our country, I have been aware of the amazing work being done by JW Marriott Chandigarh in the F&B space. From launching 35 BREWHOUSE to hosting culinary fares like Road to London or Flavours of Asia, the range is incredible,” says the chef.

Where and When: At 35 BREWHOUSE, the first microbrewery at a five-star property in the region.
On August 30 and 31, 7.30 pm onwards   

Sunday, February 17, 2019

Agrarian crisis

Farming woes are aplenty, but so
are the ways to
go back to 

being a healthy
agrarian country.
Brinda Suri tells 

the story of the 
Indian farmer

The fields have been second home for 22-year-old Mohammad Salim of Bijnor, Uttar Pradesh. His father is a marginal farmer who, till quite recently, had been able to support his family of five very capably. Salim, the eldest among three siblings, preferred skipping school and working on the farm much to the chagrin of his father, who repeatedly told him that in the coming years, the farm would not yield much income and he should educate himself for a better future. Teenager Salim chose not to pay heed to his father’s advice as he felt they lived reasonably well and the hearth was always brimming with flavoursome food.
His village was his life; there was enough work to do in the fields; it reaped a good harvest; he had friends aplenty to share secrets; grudges were none, and he felt no need to stretch himself.
Come 2019 and I spot Salim in Chandigarh. He’s moving the paintbrush in his hand at furious speed as he applies a coat of primer to the exterior walls of a house in an affluent locality. The contractor has told him he needs to be quick with plastic emulsions as they dry rapidly and dawdling work will not lead to the fine finish clients demand.
The other life
“In the past two years I’ve dabbled in a few professions,” Salim tells me. “I learnt the art of DJ and managed the music at weddings, which often took me beyond my village. I also worked as an apprentice with a motor mechanic. It’s the first time I’ve come to a big city, and here I’ve picked up the paintbrush. My sister’s marriage is coming up and we need a free flow of cash,” he says, wistfully adding, “Abba was right, the fields can no longer support our basic needs. Even so, if given a choice, I would happily till the soil, wait for seeds to germinate, and watch new life emerge.”
The story of young Salim is the story of the Indian farmer. Dwindling farm-holdings, repeated crop failure, decreased income and an existence on loans have made the farmer debt-ridden and dented his pride. The only option for many is to sell the land and move to the city as migrant labourers or become daily-wage earners on their own land. Some prefer the ultimate step: taking their life...
More in: www.deccanherald.com

JW Marriott food festival: Spicing it with Black Pepper

Angaya Podi 
Ingredients used include pipli and aswagandha
Once upon a time in southern India, black pepper was the only spice used in cooking. “That was between 300 BC and 300 AD, a period when cuisine of the Deccan was in its purest form, without any foreign influence,” says food historian and chef Shri Bala who has passionately researched the era’s Sangam Literature, a valued document of ancient Tamil history, and culled all it has to say on cuisine of those times. “The literature, which uniquely is a set of poems, speaks about the Tamizhagam region which includes areas of all present-day southern states. As far as food is concerned Sangam does not talk about recipes, rather it tells us about ingredients used in cooking. It intrigued me and I set about creating dishes using the mentioned items,” she says. It’s some of these preparations that she is laying out for the 10-day Black Pepper Festival at JW Marriott, Chandigarh. 
Chef Shri Bala with Exec Chef JW Marriott, Chandigarh,
 Naveen Handa at the opening of the Black Pepper Food Festival
Sangam literature divides Tamizhagam into five geographical landscapes—coastal, forest, mountains, cropland and dry wasteland—and describes how these influenced food habits. There is something to savour from every region at the festival which presents an epicurean feast of ancient, medieval and contemporary dishes that go far beyond the ubiquitous Deccan fare. 

The culinary expedition begins on a sweet note with the Madurai butter bun, a modern-day street food, which is a soft bun layered with butter and jaggery that gets tantalizingly caramelised on heating. “In our system of eating we always start with something sweet, as it increases hunger pangs and also aids in digestion,” says Shri Bala.  Moving on, the ancient section tempts equally with meen varuval, fish subtly flavoured with curry leaves and black pepper, as it does with the protein-packed thavalai vada made with four lentils and rice. There’s also the delicate Kovil dosa, which is fit to be served to the gods as it’s an unfermented black urad lentil preparation. The dessert section has the excellent khus khus payasam paired with adhirasam or small, thick crepes of rice flour and palm jaggery.  

The Medieval spread stands out for its vegetable dishes such as ash gourd pal kuttu and urundai kuzhumbu or lentil dumplings in gravy. From all three eras, there’s a selection of mutton (Dindigul biryani), lamb (Ambur biryani), fish (meen gassi) and chicken (Guntur chilly chicken). 
Kovil dosa 

Ambur Biryani 
Across the menu, though black pepper is the dominant spice the preparations are extremely flavoursome owing to the use of miscellaneous ancient ingredients and cooking methods. “As a case in point, we are serving Druva Grass Smoked Mutton wherein druva grass is used to smoke and cook the mutton. While the dish is spiced solely with black pepper, the smoke of the druva grass lends the mutton a distinctive spicy flavour, comparable to today’s garam masala,” explains Chef Naveen Handa, Executive Chef, JW Marriott. Chandigarh, who along with his team has worked in tandem with Shri Bala to put up this culinary time travel. 

The Rasam counter offers quite a mélange that should not be missed by those with a discerning palate. A must-try here is prawn coconut soup as well as steamed millet with angaya podi, a roasted-spice powder which has ingredients like pipli, neem flower, pea berry, night shade and of course pepper. In the accompaniments,  Inji puli pickle is a delicious mix of textures. 

At the Black Pepper Festival what shines through is the subtlety of flavours, combinations of ingredients, diverse cooking techniques and above all Shri Bala’s passion for research, hunger to excel and share her knowledge. 

The festival is on till February 24.        

Monday, July 30, 2018

Narendra Bhawan, Bikaner: In a class by itself

Diwali Chowk
Watermelon sandwich
It's not often the word eclectic gets used for a hotel. Eclectic, though, is the word that often comes to mind at Narendra Bhawan. Tucked away in the quieter side of Bikaner, it's almost like a secret the town has been shy in sharing.

The mixed strains of jazz pleasantly surprise me as I arrive at Narendra Bhawan. This is invigorating piped music, layered with haunting Western and Indian rhythms, and sets the tone for the luxury boutique hotel that is local in essence but global in outlook, quite like the man it's named after and whose erstwhile residence it was, the last reigning Maharaja of Bikaner, Narendra Singh.                      
Republic Suite in tones of grey and blue

Republic Suite sitting room 
The hotel has a consciously-casual air and immediately draws me with its plush open foyer, the vermillion-toned informal reception and a melange of engrossing elements that make the eyes wander. A red piano in a corner, bookcases packed with dog-eared titles, Playboy editions playing peek-a-boo, arresting globular ceiling lamps, sepia toned family portraits, souvenirs and other vintage bric-a-brac reflect cosy opulence and convey a sense of timelessness. Jharaokhas and jaalis seamlessly blend in with Potuguese mosaic tiles and chevron pattern floors as Rajputana meets Bombay Art Deco style to spectacular effect throughout the property. 

However, this is definitely not just another royal haveli turned into a hotel. It feels like walking into a piece of art lovingly restored and passionately curated with a phenomenal eye for detail.

Wild mushroom tortellini
The five-level, 82-room hotel is a tribute to the charismatic lifestyle of its former owner and an effort has been made to incorporate his personality into the design.The rooms have been designed to mirror different phases of Narendra Singh's life. 

These are categorised as Prince, Residence and India rooms. At the top end is the Republic Suite, which is the one I've been hosted at. 


Gaushala, the lounge
Infinity pool with a view
Chevron floors, Art Deco and more
The hotel is fully occupied so I can't view the much-talked about vibrancy of the other rooms but the suite I'm staying at is very Modernist, all about clean lines, steely blue and concrete grey. It's a decor inspired by architects of independent India who created bold new spaces. I find the suite contemporary and chic. 


Eco-conscious
From the tones of black and pearl in the bath to the steel sailboat on the round dining table, the red mail box on the desk with the Narendra Bhawan crest to the brass box holding glass bottles filled with the local anardana churan goli and bhujiaevery accent is well thought out. 

Spaces flow into each other and a terrific illustration is the original terrace being converted into Diwali Chowk, a leafy central courtyard, almost like a restorative oasis, and around it rising anew a three-storey structure comprising rooms, gymnasium as well as a rooftop sit-out and infinity pool offering a bird’s eye view of town.  

 If I have to pick a stand-out design element it will be the optimum utilisation of space. And the winner certainly will be the breezy al fresco lounge quirkily called Gaushala, as that’s what it initially was. It’s positioned right at the very entrance which sees a flow of guests the day through, yet it manages to be intimate and inviting.


Apricot brandy flourless chocolate cake
Narendra Bhawan has planned its menus as meticulously as its design. While the Mad Hatter Cafe serves a variety of confection and savouries, the very Victorian all-day dining, Pearls and Chiffon--the name drawn from the two sartorial favourites of the maharanis--rustles up appetizing fare across the cuisines and serves it in style. 

I get to taste some lesser known regional dishes as angoori sabzi and sautéed aloe vera.  And I must say I’ve not savoured better wild mushroom tortellini, butternut squash soup or watermelon sandwich. Delectable!

As with Suryagarh, Jaisalmer, Manvendra Singh Shekhawat, MD, MRS Group, and his team have yet again developed the Narendra Bhawan property as a destination in itself. If there is a reason to visit Bikaner, this is it.  


Contact: narendrabhawan.com

See also: suryagarh.com

Friday, April 6, 2018

Alfresco by the Food Truck



Food Truck at JW  Marriott, Chandigarh 
Crumbed fried sole, french fries, beer cheese dip

There's a new dining space at JW Marriott, Chandigarh. The theme is alfresco and all foodie action happens aboard the recent entrant, the Food Truck parked adjacent to The Lounge. 

The ambience is casual-chic and setting the tone is cutlery wrapped in denim napkin, artistic crockery, rattan and wood furniture. For the compact menu executive chef Naveen Handa and his team have picked a selection of all-time favourite comfort foods from Indian, Italian, Oriental and English cuisines, given a slight twist to taste, and upped the experience with customised serving ware. 
     Executive chef Naveen Handa  

Tandoori soya chaap slider,
French fries, house salad 
There is a range of tandoori tikkas, stuffed kulchas, sliders, dimsums and pizzas from the wood fired oven. In keeping with a lounge atmosphere, on offer is an option of convenient meals in a bowl such as the Mongolian chicken and egg scallion or its vegetarian counterpart the mix vegetable dumpling in soya chili sauce, both served with fried rice. The classic fish n' chips typically wrapped in paper and accompanied with beer cheese dip comes in a small wooden barrel; forget plates and cutlery, you can relax and eat straight out of  it.   

Anda, Boti-Keema-Kaleji, Aloo Kulcha,
chitta makhan, tadka pyaz
A winning combination is boti-keema-kaleji topped with an egg and served alongside aloo kulcha, chitta makhan and tadka pyaz. Irresistible! The 'open palm' crusty shell is a culinary tribute to the city's Open Hand and has a choice of delectable fillings. Besides the set menu, the chef promises dish of the day and seasonal delights. 
Wood fired oven thin crust pizzas

The fare is perfect for a pairing with mocktail, malt or microbrewery specials of your choice from The Lounge.

There is ample outdoor seating and for those who like it cooler a row of attractive air-conditioned cabanas are quite a draw. 

Rice cup spicy Thai corn salad







The Food Truck ups its shutters at 3 pm and the last order can be placed till 11.30 pm.

Meal for two with cocktails should be around Rs 2,500/- 



Sunday, August 20, 2017

Food, the traveller

During a trip to Portugal I was journeying with a guide in hand, and its most useful section was the list of common words and phrases in the local language. It was helpful when I had to say hello, please or thank you, but I would face a hurdle with menus written in Portuguese, especially in small towns. During supper at a restaurant in Porto, I saw a plate of potato fingers whizzing past my table. That settled my order and I tried explaining to the steward what I wanted. After a minute or so he said, "Ah! Batata". I nodded an amused yes, and reflected on the episode. Batata? That's the word for potato in Marathi, Gujarati, Konkani and also heard in cities like Kolkata. These are areas that had seen Portuguese influence. So had the potato arrived in India from Portugal? Research showed that indeed it had around the 17th century via Portuguese sailors who in turn had picked it up from neighbouring Spain who had originally brought it to the shores of Europe from South America. The first potato in India was grown along the western coast. It's not just the humble potato that was an import; many a vegetable, fruit and preparation of food we are fiercely proud of as being inherently desi, were not heard about till a few hundred years ago. 
At farmers' markets across India you would notice some vendors selling a variety of spinach, assorted beans, gourds, pumpkins and local produce like banana flower, drumsticks etc while there are others who keep coloured vegetables like bell peppers and carrots. The latter are often referred to as those who sell angrezi or shehri subzi... English or city vegetables. In a very straightforward way this unexceptional segregation of trade conveys the story of Indian cooking. 
India has had a deep relationship with locally-grown provisions, forest produce, herbs and spices; a fact our remote villages and tribes still exhibit the best. Cooking was largely based on the ayurvedic system of eating which broadly speaking means having food according to season and body type with each meal presenting a combination of six flavours: sweet, salt, bitter, pungent, sour and astringent. Food was simple, balanced but nourishing. 
As I dug deep to discover the history of food, it became evident that imports brought in plethora of choices and flavours and almost every popular dish in the country, has evolved over time to present itself in the form we know it today. Multiple invasions, royal patronage, colonial rule, asylum seekers and maritime traders who turned settlers have greatly influenced our food. The arrival of the Portuguese, Dutch, British, French, Mughals, Persians, Afghans, Parsis, Cantonese, Arabs, Jews Armenians and others saw their cooking traditions blending with local methods and ingredients to give India gastronomy immense depth and diversity. 
European entree 
Portuguese explorers lead by Vasco Da Gama were the first Europeans to discover the sea route to the subcontinent in 1498 AD. Their dropping anchor on Indian shores over the next few centuries brought in new greens and grains. The first seeds of the red long chilli pepper are also believed to have sailed the seas with them to forever alter the character of Indian cooking. 
Apart from the potato, they disembarked with tomato, groundnuts, maize, papaya, pineapple, guava, custard-apple, a variety of beans and cashew to name a few. This fact can be fairly established by vernacular terms of some items. In Bengal, for example, the guava is called peyara; the Portuguese term for it is pera. Pineapple and cashew are known as ananas and caju, respectively, in both countries. Bread is called pao in Portugal; so no guesses required in tracing the history of your favourite breakfast essential. 
The origin of paneer has for long been a subject of debate. But food historians as KT Achaya believe it were the Portuguese who introduced the technique of heating and deliberately splitting the milk using an acidic agent. Such cheese was first prepared in Bengal and came to be known as ponir and chhana. It was to become the basic ingredient of the immensely-loved rasogulla. On the west coast it's the Surti paneer, also known as topli nu panir among the Parsis, which has Portuguese origin. 
They are also credited with having brought the art of making vinegar and initiating its extensive use in cooking. That's clearly exhibited in the cuisine of Goa, which was a Portuguese outpost till 1961, when the Instrument of Surrender was signed, closing the chapter of Portugal's rule in India which had lasted 464 long years. Popular Goan fare, a must-have on tourist lists, like chicken cafreal, pork vindaloo, prawn recheado, chicken chacuti or the sweet bebinca is the scrumptious result of that mingling. 
Arabic, Jewish tweaks
Much before the Portuguese, in the 7th century Arab merchants had landed in southern India, in areas that belong to Kerala now. They settled in peacefully and married locally. That alliance led to an incredibly interesting spread of food in the region. 
In the state's northern districts, the Moplah (or Mappilla), the Muslim community of Malabar, have a cooking style reflecting the Arab influence of yore. The fortuitous marriage of traditions can be seen in the aleesa, a wheat and meat porridge that's the Malabar cousin of the original Arabic harees. Browse through the menu at a Moplah restaurant and you can spot the parotta. It was a flatbread created with refined flour to please the palette of homesick Arabs who did not care for rice in all three meals and missed their khoubz and khamira. The Malabar biryani served with Ethapazham or dates pickle and coconut chutney is another example of India's remarkable composite culinary culture. 
Later, when the Portuguese arrived, Malabar got its popular eshtews and egg-based desserts like muttamala, similar to the fios de ovos and the banana fritters.
The first Jews too came to the southern coast around the 8th century most possibly for trade in teak, ivory and spices. Over the centuries small batches kept arriving here with the later ones as Bene Israeli, Baghdadi Jews reaching India's shores to escape persecution. Apart from areas around Kochi, they moved to other parts of India and over time Kolkata, Pune, Mumbai and Goa became places of preference. Jewish culture thrived and Kochi's Jew Town and ornate synagogues in other cities stand witness to a glorious past. And so does typical Jewish fare like challah bread, aloo makalah, latkas, dolma matzo balls in soup etc that became familiar in Indian homes. Kosher bakeries like Nahoum and Sons in Kolkata grew famous for traditional items like baklava and the baked cheese sambusak, said to be the forerunner of the samosa. The Jews naturally influenced regional food too and a strong claim food historians make is of the appam being a Cochin Jews invention. Though the population has dwindled, Jewish food items continue to be savoured in areas where they had a strong presence and have become a happy part of the Indian food glossary. 
Persian palate 
In 1526 AD Babur set his foot in Hindustan. The Mughals not only changed the political history of the country but in a significant way transformed the course of our food history too. How we cook and eat today, especially in north India, has it beginnings centuries ago.  
Babur had suffered a series of setbacks in Central Asia, and turned towards Hindustan to accomplish his ambitions of being a conqueror. He had heard the glories of the land but though he found wealth here he was largely disillusioned with the social fabric. In his biography, Tuzk-e Babri also known as Babaurnama, the cultured warlord has famously written, "Hindustan is a place of little charm. There is no beauty in its people, no graceful social intercourse, no poetic talent or understanding, no etiquette, nobility, or manliness.  The arts and crafts have no harmony or symmetry.  There are no good horses, meat, grapes, melons, or other fruit. There is no ice, cold water, good food or bread in the markets."  Having come miles away from his land Samarkand, Babur it appears missed every aspect of home. Like his ancestors Timur and Genghis Khan, he was enamoured by Persian civilization. As he set up his empire in Hindustan, he began introducing Persian elements of art, architecture, landscaping and food. His son Humayun carried that legacy forward in a greater way.  
Humayun had lost Mughal territories to Afghan noble Sher Shah Suri and had retreated to Persia. He returned 15 years later to recapture them; and this time accompanying him was a large contingent of Persian nobles, artists and writers and cooks. Humayun was victorious and hereafter Persian culture dominated Mughal courts. 
In royal kitchen delectable Persian flavours bubbled. Their aromas also filled kingdoms such as Punjab and Kashmir (where Persian cooking and art can still be seen in its near-original form and almost borders on the sublime).
Culinary art was at its zenith in Persia and its cuisine was known for its sophistication and delicacy. Fragrances and flavours melded to present lavish results. At Mughal courts, royal chefs ran trials, fusing locally-available ingredients, spices and cooking styles with indigenous Persian techniques as dum pukht or slow cooking in a sealed vessel allowing the juices of the meats and vegetables to get absorbed well, using curd as a marinade for meat, combining vegetables and meat in a single dish, elaborate use of dry fruits and rosewater in dishes, grilling meat over charcoal in the tandoor or balancing the sweet and sour flavours in stews and soups. The result was a cuisine rich in taste and texture that overtime came to be known as Mughlai. 
That is how the kebab, quorma, musallam, shorba, champ etc accompanied with an assortment of naan/ roti baked in the tandoor and on the griddle, as well as a range of pulao became part of royal spreads and sooner or later home kitchens were doing much the same in small ways. Presentation was fundamental to Persian cuisine and became central to Mughlai style too; an example of this was the practice of gilding a dish with gold or silver leaf (warq). 
Royalty flourished and khansamas (chefs) received patronage to excel and outdo each other. Gradually, food preparation became creative and developed a sophistication that an evolved cuisine demands. Mughlai food later was tweaked at different imperial courts with Awadhi, Hyderbadi and the Rampuri (which has Afghan origins) styles emerging as offshoots. The biryani supposedly was created with the merger of cooking styles, but that remains a subject of debate. 
Anglo-Indian melange 
"Like the Mughals and the Portuguese before them, the British refashioned Indian food according to their tastes and created an independent branch of Indian cookery. This Anglo-Indian cuisine was the first truly pan-Indian cuisine, in that it absorbed techniques and ingredients from every Indian region and was eaten throughout the entire length and breadth of the subcontinent," says Lizzie Collingham in her definitive work Curry. This happened as the British hardly ever stayed at one spot in India, and as they moved to different cities they took along their retinue of cooks who prepared the same spread. 
What the khansamas of The Raj served their sahibs and memsahibs was the outcome of all things Indian whipped up with all elements European. So menus got the mulligatawny soup, a Tamil stew converted to suit an English palate; country captain's curry or chicken stew with turmeric and a dash of chillies; the all-time favourite chicken cutlet; pish pash, a rice broth with chicken; and desserts like caramel custard and bread pudding. Now labelled Dak Bungalow cuisine, it still retains familiar flavours and that nostalgia can be savoured at British-era clubs and the gymkhanas. The colonial passage to India has also given the world cocktails like gin and tonic.
A host of other influences like the Cantonese arrival in Bengal making 'Calcutta Chinese' a genre in itself or the Tibetan fare found in the Himalayas are all part of the smorgasbord of flavours that define India's incredible food landscape. Today television cookery shows and recipe books do what colonisers and traders had once done: bring in miscellaneous flavours into our kitchens. 
Food history is rampant with claims and counter-claims owing to the lack of data. But there is no denying how it has played a major role in human progression. Recipes have been adopted and restructured by different cultures, becoming testaments of history. Indian gastronomy stands witness to that. 




Etymology 
Diverse societies have strongly influenced each other and a great way to learn the voyage of food is by peeking into the etymology of a food term. Let's take the example of the kulcha. The term seems a derivative of kolache from the Old Slavonic kolo which stood for round or wheel. In Eastern Europe, kolach or kalac are buns packed with jam or walnut filling and prepared during Easter. Further on, koloocheh are Persian yeast cookies stuffed with walnuts, sugar and cinnamon specially baked during celebrations. The cookies are flaky, moist, mildly sweet and ideal with a cup of hot Irani chai. Moving East, kolcha becomes the generic term for sweet or savoury biscuits in Afghanistan while it means sweet flat buns in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Closer home is the Kashmiri kulchay, a yeast-leavened dry, crumbly biscuit-like snack dunked into tea. Moving to Punjab you get the hugely popular potato-stuffed Amritsari kulcha baked in the tandoor, while in most other parts of the country kulcha means the yeast leavened soft-textured bread in the shape of a flat bun.  




Friday, August 11, 2017

JW Marriott, Chandigarh: On a culinary expedition

On the wheels: Road to London... A Gourmet Journey


When a group of adventurous Indians was planning to travel from Delhi to London they thought why bother with flights let’s just take the road. That’s precisely what they did and zipped through spectacular trans-continental terrain — IndoChina, Central Asia, Europe — logging miles and jotting experiences on the wonders of wander. These figures tell their story: 19,500 km, 55 days, 18 countries and 13 SUVs. 
Dilpreet Bindra (left) and Naveen Handa 
Among the trailblazers who took the road less travelled and accomplished the feat is Dilpreet Singh Bindra, General Manager, JW Marriott, Chandigarh. A passionate explorer, he is overwhelmed by the sheer scale of Road to London 2017, organised by Gurgaon-based Adventures Overland. 
“What an incredible journey this has been. We had planned meticulously for over six months and everything worked to precision. What made it remarkable was the cultural exchange, the thrill of traversing the Silk Route, the magnitude of nature, and the impeccable highways that made driving such a pleasure.” 

After flag-off from Imphal and clearing the customs at Moreh, the Indian border outpost, the self-driven expedition made its way through Myanmar, Thailand, and the rain forests of Laos, before entering China and being dazzled by the state-of-the-art Dragon country. What welcomed them next was the vastness of land and warmth of locals as they drove through Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. Further on Russia showed its gentle side while Latvia, Lithuania and Poland delighted them with East European generosity and courtesies. It was a breeze here on as the convoy manouvered through Czech Republic, Germany, Netherlands, Belgium, France to finally cross the English Channel and let out a hurrah in London. 

Bindra wasn’t only at the wheel during the trip as the hotelier in him made sure he peeped into kitchens at restaurants and highway inns, cooked and ate (and even sang) with locals, gathered spices and collected an assortment of recipes. Once back to work in Chandigarh, cuisines were discussed with the F&B section at the hotel. Lead by executive chef Naveen Handa, the team worked for over a month to recreate what Bindra had tasted and the result is Road to London... A Gourmet Journey, a five-day food festival on the culinary trail of 18 countries, that commences today. At the preview on Thursday, I tasted a sample of what’s on offer and all I can say is the palette of flavours pleased the palate enormously.

Auksta zupa
Yall dib
If the deep pink auksta zupa, a chilled beetroot-cucumber soup from Latvia had a perfect blend of flavours, the gaeng kiew wan pak (vegetable green curry) and coconut jasmine rice showed the subtlety Thai cuisine is known for. From Laos, yall dib, which is fresh vegetable juliennes wrapped in paper-thin rice sheets and served cold was stunning in its simplicity. While driving through South East Asia, Bindra had found the cuisine of the region offered impressive vegetarian delicacies, and the selection presented at the food fest stands testimony to that.
  
Chengdu hotpot
Tasting sessions at China have brought in original Sichuan, Xingjiang and Yunnan flavours. The show-stopper on the table was the Chengdu hotpot, a Sichuan whole roasted fish broth flavoured with herbs. From places on the Silk Route, as Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, there is the baked somsa, a precursor of our deep-fried samosa, besides robust lamb stews and shashlik, prepared traditionally using minimal spices. In this section, standing in a league of its own is the tandyr nan, the Uzbek flat bread, so perfectly baked, that I enjoyed having it all by itself. Another star for me was cepelinai, Lithuanian poached potato and mushroom dumpling in sour cream. It looked wicked but bowled me over with its delicate texture and a burst of flavours. In the Europe segment there will be a lot more to choose from, as the popular bigos from Poland and bitterballon from The Netherlands. A wide choice of breads and flavousome dips complete the line-up of over 50 dishes which also includes fare from Lucknow, Assam, Bihar and Meghalaya. 

The desserts section is a medley of sweet temptations: cakes, tarts and flaky pastries. One that took me back to my trip to Poland was karpatka. Delicious!  Matterntaart from Belgium, xianhua bing, a Yunnan rose-flower cake, marlenka from Czech Republic, baumkuchen from Germany and klingeris from Latvia were some others in the irresistible club.

That it was a huge learning experience for the chefs was visible in their enthusiasm to explain culinary nuances of what they had laid out. For it’s not every day that a hotel gets to prepare Latvian, Uzbek, Krygyz, Kazhak or Polish dishes. This fest is an absolute must-visit, especially if to you passion means food. 
  
What: Road to London – a gourmet journey 
Where: The Café@JW, JW Marriott, 
            Sector 35, Chandigarh 
When: August 11 to 15, 2017
           Brunch: 12.30 pm to 3.30 pm, 
           Rs 1,550 plus taxes  
           Dinner: 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm, 
           Rs 1,950 plus taxes